From the front desk
Fourteen places we actually go
We get asked the same question every morning, usually with a phone already open on a list of the ten best things to do.
Put that away. Here is what we tell our friends. It is not complete and it is not fair, and we have left out plenty of good places because we do not like the owner’s dog. We will mark up a paper copy for you when you arrive.
The front desk, Houtkaai 17
An imagined quarter, drawn by hand. Every place in this guide is invented, and none of them will be expecting you.
Coffee
Lepel
Four stools and a very serious person. Order whatever they are pouring, and do not ask for oat.
Before nine · 3 min on foot
De Tweede Brug
The bakery that makes our bread. They sell the ends of the loaf cheap on Tuesdays, and it is what we would buy.
Tuesday morning · 5 min on foot
Zuster
A tiled room behind a florist. Take the back table and stay for a second one.
Slow afternoons · 9 min on foot
Dinner
Oude Vismijn Kitchen
Eleven tables, one chef, whatever the boats brought. Book before you arrive and ask for the mussels if it is the season.
Thursday, late · 7 min on foot
Maison Pol
A proper old brasserie with proper old waiters. The steak tartare is hand cut at the table, and the frites are the reason.
When it rains · 11 min on foot
Polder
Vegetables taken very seriously in a former print shop. You will not miss anything, and we say that as people who like meat.
After a long walk · 13 min on foot
Drinks
Het Ankertje
A brown café by the water where nothing has changed since the last time anyone checked. Have the house old brown.
Six o'clock · 4 min on foot
Kelder 9
Down a stair you would walk past. Natural wine, a record on, and a landlady who will tell you what you actually want.
After dinner · 8 min on foot
Culture
The Painters' Rooms
A small collection in a long house. Go for the one room of Flemish portraits, stand in front of the third one, and then leave.
When it opens · 10 min on foot
Sint-Clara's Yard
A walled almshouse garden that is open to anyone who shuts the gate behind them. Please do shut it.
Early evening · 6 min on foot
Design
Atelier Vermeulen
Ceramics made in the back and sold in the front. Our breakfast cups come from here, and yes, you can buy them.
Friday, kiln day · 8 min on foot
Papier
Marbled paper, Belgian linen and pens you will be afraid to use. Ask to see the drawers.
A rainy hour · 6 min on foot
Walks
The Long Way to the Mill
Follow the old rampart north with the water on your left. Twenty-five minutes to the windmills, and the light is best going out.
Sunset · 2 min on foot
Back of the Bridges
We draw this one on your map at the desk. Seven bridges, no shops, and at least one cat who regards it as his.
Sunday, first thing · 1 min on foot